2019 Bernard Defaix Chablis 1er Cru Côte de Léchet09812
Much like the rest of Burgundy, Chablis' finest vineyards have (for better or worse) become synonymous with a symbolic grower. This is the case with the Côte de Léchet and Domaine Bernard Defaix. The Domaine is the largest holder within this 1er Cru and its cellars sit at the base of the Léchet hill. Didier Defaix is therefore the vineyard's emblematic vigneron (and the site's only certified organic grower).
Some 10% of this wine (less than normal), was fermented and matured in old, neutral barrels (which previously housed Defaix's old-vine Reserve Léchet bottling). The rest was raised in glass-lined tanks. It opens with breezy lemon rind, almond paste and yellow orchard fruit, leading to a rippling layered palate of satiny texture, shot through with chalky, mineral freshness. It is generously shaped, yet impeccably trimmed by cool acidity and a salty and vivacious finish. Superb white Burgundy.