2021 Fazenda Agrícola Augalevada Mercanario Blanco
WINEMAKER: Iago Garrido
REGION: Galicia, SP
VARIETY: Treixadura, Albariño, Torrontés, Palomino
VITICULTURE: Certified Biodynamic/Organic
Mercenario, or “mercenary,” in English, is a range of wines that comes from purchased fruit, or vineyards that Iago farms but doesn’t own. Vineyards worked by Iago are under organic or biodynamic culture, and others are a mix of organic and conventional, depending on each grower. The only grapes that Iago accepts from conventional growers are from exceptional sites, but they remain a minuscule proportion of his fruit.
Each of the varieties has their turn at the microphone during this wine’s song. Starting out delicate and fresh, like a cool dip in a rock pool with a bellini awaiting you, then hits you with a gust of cold morning air, a deft and textured palate that is oily and sly all at once, garlanded with white stone fruits, a posey of yellow roses, cardamom, oregano (almost), nasturtium and almond oil. The acidity glimmers, but makes room for incredible length in this wine. There’s something about this wine that makes us beg for baccala or salted, aged cheese. Mercenario Blanco is always one of the highlights of the Iago ouvre, blending local varieties Treixadura, Albariño, Torrontés, and Palomino into a wine that always effortlessly captures the season. Fermented initially in stainless steel at low temperatures, it undergoes around ten months of aging in a combination of 400-liter amphoras and 600-liter stainless steel tanks. Predominantly sourced from the Manolo de Traveso vineyard, known for its clay-rich soil and granite bedrock, with additional grapes from the Arnoia Valley and lower Miño area.
The most Jurasian-style of Galice. With a background in agricultural engineering, Iago became fascinated with permaculture at a young age and Augalevada is the first biodynamic certified (Demeter) winery in the history of Ribeiro. Galician cows chew on the lush grass, chickens roam through the vines while diverse orchard trees and a vegetable patch feed Iago’s family. In 2009 he purchased a bit over 4 hectares and add planted himself two-and-a-half hectares in the following years. Iago built his cellar on the granitic hill over three floors allowing for gravity during winemaking. He ages his wines in 500 litre and 600 litre barrels as well as tinajas, made by the master Juan Padilla (Villarrobledo), buried underground in the cellar basement.