2021 Domaine de la Borde Arbois Pupillin Ad infernum et Salutem14543
WINEMAKER: Julien Mareschal
REGION: Jura, FR
VARIETY: Pinot Noir, Trousseau
VITICULTURE: Certified Biodynamic
Pure and open with earthy blueberry and currant aromas, exquisite texture and intense cranberry acidity.
Julien Mareschal was part of a wave of young vignerons who set up camp in the Jura in the early to mid-naughties. Unlike some of the others, Julien's family grew cereal, not grapes, and for a while it seemed like he would follow suit. After a degree in agriculture, he moved on to a diploma in oenology at Dijon. Previous experience in Burgundy and Bordeaux was supplemented by his work with notable Jura producers Xavier Reverchon in Poligny and Pascal Clairet in Arbois. These two vignerons gave Julien an insight to both traditional Jura and a more modern approach.
In the early naughties it was possible for young vigneron wannabes like Julien to set up at relatively low cost in the Jura compared to other more famous French regions. So in 2003 at the ripe old age of 23 he bought 3.5 hectares of well-tended and well-situated vines in the blue marl-rich valleys of Pupillin, one of the Jura’s most famous and finest sub-regions. The following year he bought another hectare and now has roughly 5 hectares in different sites averaging around 40 years of age. Starting from scratch meant Julien had to sell part of his first harvests and give music lessons on the side in the early years to survive. He remains a keen musician and holds regular jazz, folk and wine nights at the winery.
Having worked his vineyards in a reasonable fashion since he started his small domaine, he began conversion to organics and biodynamics in 2009 and is certified organic, and ‘officially’ converted to biodynamic certification in 2012. His good friend and fellow BD advocate, François Duvivier of Domaines Marquis d’Angerville in Volnay and Pélican in the Jura, mentored him in his biodynamic practices. Julien works alone in both the vines and the winery and has the attention to detail and intimate knowledge of his vines and work required to make great wines.