2022 Comando G Navatalgordo Garnacha
WINEMAKER: Fernando Garcia & Daniel Landi
REGION: Sierra de Gredos, SP
VARIETY: Grenache
VITICULTURE: Organic
Luis Gutiérrez has a great article on the going-on’s at Comando G, his last visit created the following reviews and a quick top note on the current release: I tasted the latest bottled wines from Comando G that are hitting the market now, the regional and village wines from 2022 and the single-vineyard 2021s. The two vintages are extremely diAerent, a more Mediterranean 2022 and a cooler, more Atlantic 2021. This is the finest collection of wines I have ever tasted from Comando G, each of them with a diAerent personality, more and more evident each year.
96 Pts Wine Advocate Luis Gutiérrez Drink 2024-2034. The 2022 Navatalgordo, a village red from the village of the same name, is one of two completely new village wines from 2022, as the one from Rozas is an evolution of the Rozas 1er Cru. This was produced to reflect the character of the village, showcasing wines with tension and sharpness. It comes from soils with lots of quartz and was made with their own grapes and ones purchased from growers that have been working together with them at an average 1,100 meters in altitude. It fermented with full clusters in concrete and oak vats with 35- to 40-day maceration, and its élevage was in concrete and oak foudres. This village produces wines with lower alcohol, lower pH and higher acidity, even in warmer years like 2022. And the wine has more color, even if the alcohol is lower, from the cold. It's a wine that needs more time, more Barolo with a chalky character and slow development. It has a very floral and expressive nose, with electric acidity, and is tense, serious. This is the 2022 that feels less like 2022... Only with time in the glass did it develop some meaty aromas (Bovril?) and spiciness, which pointed at a warmer year and more Gevrey character. It has a contained 13% alcohol and a pH of around 3.0! Incredible parameters for a year like 2022. 11,047 bottles produced. It was bottled in August 2023. Only a little sulfur was added at bottling time, never before, as they feel the profile of the wine is more apt to work without added sulfur.
Comando G is the joint project of Fernando Garcia, of Marañones, and Daniel Landi, of his eponymous label. Based in the town of Rozas del Puerto Real, high in the Sierra de Gredos, the Comando G team produce some of the most celebrated and sought-after wines in Spain.