2019 Domaine la Taupe Surin

WINEMAKER: Julian Seckinger & Bertjan Mol
REGION: Loire Valley, FR
VARIETY: Sauvignon Blanc
VITICULTURE: Certified Biodynamic

100% Sauvignon Blanc, from 35-75 year old vines grown on clay with limestone subsoils, and some silex. In 2019 they decided to harvest a bit earlier than usual. In previous years they had done what Bruno Allion had - waited for peak maturity. But this time they wanted to preserve freshness and move away from texture and back towards acidity. The result is impressive. Direct press, then aged in old barrels for one year. Not fined or filtered, and zero sulfites added.

"There is a tiny bit of gas when you open these - it helps to preserve the freshness and gives the wine a lively, energetic feel. Give the wine 5 minutes to breathe or a decant if you wish, and you're in for a treat! Beautiful reduction that is very reminiscent of Les Noëls de Montbenault Chenin from Richard Leroy. Lighter colour this year too. Vibrant and expressive on the nose. Cool river water over stones. Fresh and frosty, with subtle notes of lemon, fresh crisp apple flesh, white flowers and lemon sherbet. To taste it is very fresh with huge energy. Rather than textured, it is straight, crisp, and buzzing. High acidity, and great length. It is cool and stony like a Riesling almost. Very clean and elegant, and certainly no gross characteristics of Sauvignon (passionfruit, cat pee, grass etc). Would be very hard to guess this blind as Sauvignon." - Ryan Larkin, importer

Bertjan Mol was born and raised in the Netherlands. In 1999 on a trip to France, he tasted his first natural wine. It was a revelation, and led him to create Bruutwijn, one of the first companies in the Netherlands to import natural wines. As things progress in the way they do, Bert decided he wanted to have a go at making wine himself. Aware that Bruno Allion (whose wines he imported) was looking to retire, he proposed an offer, and Bruno agreed to sell him a portion of his Domaine. Bert, his wife Nicole and their family moved to the Loire, and began working in the vineyards in 2017. Bruno helped them along the way, and 2018 was their first solo vintage.

They continue to work as Bruno did, as naturally as possible. This means biodynamic farming (certified by Demeter), and hands off in the cellar. The wines are fermented spontaneously on their indigenous yeasts, which is often long and slow due to the cold cellar conditions. No additives are used, including SO2. There is no fining or filtration, and the wines are bottled by gravity. These are the truest of natural wines that are alive in every sense, and are a direct representation of the terroir and the year that was.