2021 Joh. Jos. Prüm Graacher Himmelreich Riesling Kabinett
WINEMAKER: Katharina Prüm
REGION: Mosel, GER
VARIETY: Riesling
VITICULTURE: Sustainable
“Reductive smoke and a little funk cloud the nose of the 2021 Riesling Graacher Himmelreich Kabinett for now. Vivid freshness, however, is immediately apparent on the palate. The body speaks more of stone, with ripe yet lime-edged stone fruit already beckoning but still unfurling and pointing to depth with a little more texture. The finish is very fresh, incisive and grippy.” 93 points, Anne Krebiehl MW, Vinous
What is behind the consistency and greatness of J.J. Prüm? There are five main reasons:
1. Great sites: the four vineyards below have 2,000 years of history and are some of the most revered of the middle Mosel (Graacher Himmelreich and Wehlener Sonnenuhr in particular, are legendary).
2. Old, ungrafted vines: 90% of the estate’s vines are ungrafted with an average age exceeding 60 years. There are several key parcels aged between 70 and 100 years-plus. This has all kinds of implications for yield and quality.
3. Precise picking dates: every parcel is picked only when perfectly ripe (subject to Prädikat) and often with multiple passes.
4. Natural yeast, unhurried fermentations and patient aging on lees: the wines are never rushed and are only bottled when ready. This extra time on natural lees means the wines absorb everything the lees have to give (this sometimes means some gentle reduction and wines that need some time to unwind).
5. The Prüms are a family of perfectionists: They are interested only in producing greatness and honouring the remarkable vineyards and ancient vines they are blessed to farm.